Adding Masala To Mainstream Media: South Asian Fashion Week

"Lehengas turned into co-ord sets. Sarees turned into gowns with drapes. Palazzo pants became wide-legged pants. We want to reclaim that narrative and introduce the world to the origins of these silhouettes and designs” (Shipra Sharma). On Sept. 8, 2022, the first-ever South Asian New York Fashion Week was hosted. Created by Shipra Sharma and Hetal Patel, designers came together to create pieces incorporating elements of traditional and western wear all while showcasing the history of South Asia. Despite the contrary belief that this semi-annual event is no different than the others, they are yet to understand the significance that this has regarding the fashion industry and the legacy of South Asia.

It was not until the past five years that we began seeing South Asian representation in media; specifically, this year with shows like Never Have I Ever and Bridgerton as well as The Gray Man, all starring South Asian leads. Even with that, award-winning films such as Slum Dog Millionaire and Gandhi, while being based on an Indian and having a mainly Indian cast, were not directed by Indians. Due to this, many Indians were offended by the lack of accurate representation and commented on how these films only seemed to focus on poverty and the downsides of Indian culture. Especially with hits like Baahubali, KGF, and Dangal earning more than some of Hollywood's biggest hits, some questioned why they did not just hire an Indian director. Similarly, some of today’s latest trends such as ayurvedic practices and hair oiling have been part of India’s history dating back more than 3,000 years ago, yet using different names or having an influencer promote it suddenly makes it popular. What is humorous is that this is not the first time something with an origin from people of color has others taking credit for it and yet society can not seem to learn from its mistakes. This is where events such as the South Asian New York Fashion Week come into play.

Organized by streetwear, sustainability, menswear, traditional, bridal, and Indo-western styles; iconic South Asian designers such as Nomi Ansari and Mayyur Girota, established designers like Rivesse and Jinashili, and emerging designers such as Aariah and Pali, created a stunning week-long show. Moreover, on Sept. 10, 2022, The Bazaar was hosted which was an event where small businesses had the opportunity to showcase their work. From Verve and Vogue, a company that sells South Asian pieces created by women for women, to hand-embroidered pieces created by Indira Bishen, not only did this event help bring the spotlight to upcoming business’ but also helped customers learn about the art and culture of South Asia. Furthermore, at the end of the week, a health and wellness pop-up was hosted with yoga and ayurvedic teachings.

The main idea behind South Asian New York Fashion week was to highlight components of Western and traditional wear, break the barriers regarding eurocentric standards, and decolonize the fashion industry. With India being colonized for almost a century, not only did this impact their culture, politics, and economy, but it also took a toll on the fashion industry. For example, in the popular film, Gentlemen Prefer Blondes, Marylin Monroe is seen wearing a gorgeous floor-length fitted orange dress with a scarf draped across her neck, which is still iconic to this day. However, while many think that adding this scarf was something never seen before and ahead of our time, it was an Indian staple known as a dupatta or chunni dating back to 3300-1300 BCE. Through this fashion week, not only can they represent India pre and post-colonization, but they can tell a story of the oppression and discrimination faced, which most favored brands shy away from doing.

As society progresses, it’s important to acknowledge the origins of popular trends and give credit where credit is due; with the help of the fashion industry, which is always evolving, statement pieces can turn into stories enlightening those around them. South Asian New York Fashion Week is only the beginning of multiple events that will not only represent South Asians, but teach others about the art and culture seen all over the world.